7.2 Volt NiCad Cycler

Table 1
| Part | Description | Radio Shack # | DigiKey # | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| IC1 | TL431(ILP) Motorola | n/a | 296-1292-ND | Adj. Shunt Reg., TO-92 |
| R1, R4 | 820 Ohm resistor | 820QBK-ND | white red brown gold | |
| R2, R3 | 5 ohm, 25W, WW | green brown brown gold | ||
| P1 | 10K trimmer | 3292W-103-ND | 10-turn | |
| D1 | LED, red | 276-033 | high brightness | |
| D2 | 1N4001 diode | 276-1101 | 1N4001DICT-ND | 50V, 1A, rectifier |
| K1 | 5 volt relay | 275-240 | 1-amp or better | |
| S1 | switch, momentary 'on' | 275-1547 | sub miniature |
Technical Notes: This NiCad cycler is
based on the Motorola Solid-State precision voltage reference device, TL431(ILP). The trip
point can be set to 6.6 volt or whatever else you prefer for your 7.2 volt battery pack.
Radio Shack can order this part in I was told.
TL431ILP senses the preset voltage reference and trips
the relay when that control voltage point is reached, adjusted with the 10-turn trimmer
potentiomer, which in turn activates the charger. The resistors used in this circuit
provide an approximate discharge rate of 250mA. Since the remainder of the circuits' power
is also provided by the battery being discharged, an additional 50mA or so is discharged
from the NiCad battery packs. The relay is configured as a latch so that once the unit
trips from discharge to charge, the unit cannot be recycled until the start switch is
pressed again. The component values, setting up the discharge value and trip poins can be
adjusted to handle any size or battery voltage up to the 30 volt maximum rating of the
TL431. Remember, the relay coil voltage must also be taken into consideration when
changing the operating voltage of the circuit. All components listed in the circuit can be
easily obtained from your local electronics store or Tandy/Radio Shack, although the TL431
may have to be ordered in. If you find a significant drop in discharge time you have a
clue that something is going bad with your pack and close examination or a new purchase
may be needed.
R2 and R3 are preferable wire-wound resistors
Description and Calibration: When you
have completed building the cycler, go back and make sure that all your connections are
soldered solidly and that all connections are correct. If you're not sure, try to get help
from someone with electronics experience. Although highly unlikely, it is possible to
destroy the TL431 by reversing the positive/negative connections so try to make sure this
particular device is hooked up correctly. Take your time checking your wiring and
connections; the last thing you want is damage to your charger.
To calibrate this unit you need an adjustable power supply since the 7.2 volts cannot be
obtained with the regular 1.5 volt dry cells. A NiCad battery pack will not work for this
step in the process. You need an adjustable Power Supply and set the voltage to about 7
volts.
Your goal in calibrating the cycler is to adjust the trimmer in such a way that the unit
will change from 'discharge' to 'charge' when the cells reach 1.1 volts per cell, which
will amount to 6.6 volts total.
Preset the trimmer control all the way to one end. If you followed the the parts list
above you will have about 10-turns to go from one end to the other, and believe me, with a
regular trimpot adjusting the cycler is almost impossible. A 10-turn trimmer is a
necessity!
The power supply, at 7 volt, is just above the voltage you want the receiver pack to
change over from 'cycle' to 'charge'.
Connect the power supply across the receiver battery leads of the cycler. Press and
release the start button. If the LED lights and stays lit, turn the control all the way to
the other end, and repeat the step above. Now turn the trimmer otentiometer back 1/8 turn,
in the opposite direction you turned it to get the LED to go off. Press and release the
start button one more time. IF the LED stays on, the receiver battery adjustment portion
of the cycler is complete. If the LED still goes out, turn the trimmer an additional 1/8
turn back. Now the LED shoud stay lit when the start button is pressed and released. If it
does not, or the relay seems to 'rattle' when you press the start button recheck your
wiring; something is not connected right.
What exactly should that trigger-level be, you may ask? It should be the set-point where you
wish to start the charge-cycle. At 1.1volt/cell that would be 6.6 volt. You may like it a
bit higher like 6.8volt (1.13 volt/cell). So what you do is you keep adjusting the trimpot
until it starts the 'charge' cycle at 6.8volts. Easy huh? Mine is set for 0.9 volt/cell
which is not recommended for all nicad batteries and is definately not for the faint of
heart. My packs are over 8 years old and still going strong. I cycle all my nicads once a
month, no matter if I use(d) them or not.
CAUTION: Do NOT plug your wall charger in during the
calibration procedure. It should only be plugged in when the NiCad is connected to the
cycler!
Once you completed the adjustments, connect your fully charged NiCad pack to the cycler.
Plug in the wall charger. The LED on your wall charger should be on indicating the pack
are being charged. If not, check your wiring again. Now press and release the start
button. The Led on the cycler should go on and the led on the wall charger go out. This
state indicates your battery pack being 'discharged'. When the led on the wall charger is
on, the battery is being charged. About 16-hours after the cycler has switched from
discharge to charge, your battery pack is ready for use.
Remember, you must allow the battery pack to fully charge before flying. I don't
need to remind you to check the battery voltage with your expanded scale voltmeter before
each flight.
Also note that the adjustment can be bit tricky, so just take your time and be patient.
The phone number for DigiKey is 1-800-Digi-Key.